1450s Borgia Headwear

I also needed something on my head to go with my new “Borgia” dress.
So I decided to make a simple headband (kind of a stripped down french hood) with a hair net to hide my hair, or lack thereof.

For the construction I used ” A Damsel in this Dress” great tutorial on hoods.
(www.adamselindisdress.wordpress.com/2014/09/16/how-to-make-french-hoods)

The materialsimg_0393I used the same striped brocade as n the dress, on top of buckram and lined with cotton scraps.

Cutting the outer fabricimg_0394

Using the machine to attach the milliner wire to the Buckramimg_0397

Pinning and stitching the fabric to the frame
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Adding lace to the edgeimg_0404

And a velvet strip to be decorated with pearls. img_0407

Then I attached the lining img_0408

I used a bought, blue hairnet to pick up the colors from the dress. img_0384

I really wanted to add beads to the hairnet as seen in paintings of the time (and in “The Borgias” series) but it didn’t work at all. img_0392 So after a few tries I decided to go on without them.

I finished the headband by stitching the hairnet to the cresent and adding wig snaps to the inside to keep it on my head.

Finished headdress (and a sneak a peak of the dress being worn)
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Just the facts:

Challenge: Nr 5/2016 Holes

What: a 1490s Italian headwear – Cresent with hairnet.

Pattern: I made my own.

Fabric/notions: Thread, Scraps of striped brocade, cotton, buckram, lace ribbon, velvet ribbon, some pearls and about 60 cm of millinery wire. And of course a hairnet.

How historical accurate: Not sure., Since I didn’t really did any research for this one, but just wanted a pretty headress to go with my dress (Sorry). maybe 3/10.

Time: Most of it are hand made, so I guestimate about 2-3 hours.

Cost: Slim to none since it all was scraps, but lets say 50 Sek (8 Usd) for everything (including the hairnet*).

First worn: Late august for photos, and a few days later on he yearly Medieval fair.

Final thoughts: I think it looks pretty and works well with the dress. It does also do the job of (togheter with some lose hair ringlets) hiding my own short hair.

*Gott’a love Ebay🙂

1490s Borgia dress – Construction part 2 – Finishing

And here comes the second part on the construction of my “Borgia” dress (part 1)

tumblr_mc079qPab21r4sg4ao2_250The Main inspiration

As a new mom the time for sewing is a bit more restricted then before, but when the urge to create gets to overwhelming you sometimes need to do what ever needed to get the itch satisfied.  
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He actually falls right asleep once carried, whether I’m handsewing or using the machine.

Starting where we left of, finished the skirt, sleeves and assembled the bodice I hated the dress. I was so frustrated I left it on the dressform several days before I got the energy to tackle it again.14191394_10210265180927555_1142277737_oBy then I’ve convinced myself that once finished it would look much better then limp and sad on my dressform. I also hoped the proportions would look much better on me then on the form.

So carry on I did, marking the lacing holes.
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14215727_10210265181247563_2038233614_oHm, what color to use…

img_0345Right side finished with lacing holes and trim.

Once the lacing was finished I stitched the sides of the bodice together and then it was time to put it on to14191493_10210265181287564_429470907_o img_0350
The fit is almost perfect (if you ignore the ridiculous low neckline).

The small lacing holes I’ve made needed a thin and delicate lace – one which would not hold the preasure of my not so small bust. So I added some lacing rings and a cotton cord (to be hidden beneath the stomacher) to take the stress of the pretty golden laces.img_0377

Then I added the lining to the bodice, fixed the front clouser, finished the edges of all the little laces (sooo many laces and lacing holes) and hemmed the skirt.img_0382

And that was that🙂

The finished Dress
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Just the Facts:

Challenge: nr 1/2016 Procrastination – I’ve been wanted to make this dress for  long time, but only now (summer 2016) got around to make it.

What: A 1490s Italian Dress inspired by the TV-series “The Borgias”

Pattern: I drafted my own, using “The tudor tailor” for reference on the bodice.

Fabric: 4 m light blue satin (1 m wide) 1,5 m striped brocade, 0,5 m white cotton for lining and interlining.

Notions: Thread, buttonhole thread, 6 m silvery ribbon, 3 m golden ribbon for front lacing, 3 m cotton lacing for internal lacing, 12 lacing rings, 2 m plastic boning, 0,5 m steel boning, 4 m blue furniture braid for decoration.

How historical accurate: Not that much I’m afraid. The fabric are all modern (polyester) and the sewing and construction was made using modern techniques and sewing machine. the style of dress itself are plausible but probably borderline fantasy. I must admit I’m not that knowing on this specific period. Maybe 5/10

Time: Way to long – I would guess about 20 hours over the course of 1,5 month, working in small batches of maximum 1 hour at the time.

Cost: About 200 Sek (16 Usd) – A real bargain! It should probably be more like 1000 sek (160 Usd)

First worn: For photos mid August and at a Medieval Fair late August.

Final Thoughts: I actually like it even though I feel like Booberella in it. The neckline ended up to low, and the way it closes in the front are not the best solution.
But I think this is one of the most decorated pieces I’ve ever made, and think it looks great.

1490s Borgia dress – Construction

I’ve long wanted o make an early Italian Renaissance dress inspired by the series “The Borgias”

tumblr_lt0cgyMJUB1qiu1coo3_400Main inspiration

But it wasn’t until I remembered these two fabrics in my stash the design really took shape.20160719_085353_resizedA beautiful striped brocade I bought a whole bolt of for a steal about a year ago, and a dove grey/blue satin acquired on a fabric sale for about 5 Sek/m (it’, only 1,20 wide but for that price I could live whit that)

20150810_181826_resized Isn’t it gorgeous!

Playing around with the design I decided to use the design on the brocade for stripes and trim..img_9962Three different sizes of “trim”

once all the pieces was cut I started working on the skirt. I stitched the panels together, leaving the center back open. Then I pinned and basted two different kinds of brocade trim to the front and along the lower edge. img_9965 I also added some blue furniture band along the center front decoration.

Then I stitched the back shut and pleated the waist to the right measurement.

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The wide stripe looked a bit strange at the top, so I folded some of it under to create an adjustable pleat.

Then it was time for the sleeves.

img_9961Cutting the sleeves on the bias.

After some hesitation I decided to cut the sleeves into two pieces each and to make them tied on, like the ones in my inspiration. img_0300experimenting with trimimg_0342All the pieces of the sleeves ready for decoration.

Then it was time for the bodice.img_9588Drafting the pattern

I cut the pieces in blue satin with un-bleached cotton for lining and interlining which I basted to the satin after drawing on the boning channels. img_9968

I used plastic zip-ties for boning img_0148

14202793_10210265179247513_1883118307_oin and outside of the bodice

Before stitching it together I needed to figure out and ad the decoration.14191392_10210265185047658_269194987_oOne line of brocade pinned on.

14171877_10210265181127560_570766475_ndifferent ways of trimming the bodice

It was around this point I put it on the dressform to get a grip on the over all look.
14215695_10210265177087459_2004703130_oAnd unfortunately I hated it😦

1400-1600s Chemise

The first thing I needed for my Borgia dress was a new chemise.

I wanted one with lots of floowy fabrics and huge sleeves to pouf through the holes in the outer dress.

Bildresultat för the borgias chemise
Not as fancy as this one, but in the same style.

And since a chemise is basically made out of squares, I didn’t use any pattern but used sketches like this one and the one in “The Tudor Tailor” for reference.

Bildresultat för chemise pattern

I used a thin cotton voile, and sewed the whole thing on machine using the french seam as a seam finish.

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The whole thing went together pretty fast, and I would have made it in one night if I hadn’t messed up and inserted one of the sleeves inside out.

Damn!

And not only had I set it inside out, I only noticed it after I french seamed the heck out of it.

Double Damn!

IMG_0330that seam should really be on the inside…

I briefly considering leaving it that way (it’s underwear after all, No one is going to see it), but then I decided to fix it right away to be able to finish that same night.

 After some hesitation and trying to unpick the tiny stitching, I decided to just cut the whole thing of and start over again. IMG_0331 Cutting the seam allowance, to re-set the sleeve.

Said and done. I re-set the sleeve, finished the neckline (with a cord for gathering) and started to steam the finished chemise for photos.

Then I realized I re-set the sleeve in the exact same way as before – INSIDE OUT!

What the f-ck!

I almost burst into tears right then and there.
But after I managed to collect myself (a process involving frenetic searching through the kitchen for chocolate and getting some hugs and toothless smiles from my baby) I decided to put the project on hold for the night.

It took a few days but when I once more got some time for sewing I bit the bullet and re-set the sleeve once more, thus finally finishing it of. (And you can’t even tell that the shoulders now uneven)

The finished Chemise:
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1490s Borgia dress – costume study

Have you seen the Showtime series “The Borgias”?
(I know it’s a few years old but I don’t care)
Bildresultat för the borgiasIt’s a wonderful series About the 15th century pop Alexander VI and it’s full of betrails, sex, murder but most of all gorgeous costumes.
As far as history is concerned the show does lack a bit (inspired by the life of Alexander, would be a more accurate description), but costume wise they pretty much nailed it. And it looks beautiful.

Some real inspiration:
italian-venetian-fashion-clothing-16-century-early-modernThe left one is one of my favorite dresses and totally on my “to-do” list.

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And some of my favorites from the show:
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Pretty, Yes?

And before you have to ask, of course I wanted to make my own Italian dress.

After some thinking I narrowed it down to two main inspiration dresses from the series

Dress nr 1 The-Borgias-the-borgias-19420145-375-500I know he is gorgeous but lets try to focus on the dress…

tumblr_mumap5hf8M1qib0lto1_500Lovely light blue and gold coloring. I also love the lacing on the bodice and the sheerness of the chemise.

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6e469769c298f469f20c55f72f55103dpretty profile

Dress nr 2;tumblr_lt0cgyMJUB1qiu1coo3_400

tumblr_mc079qPab21r4sg4ao2_250Perfection

While studying the pics I noticed that they actually reused the dress above in season 2 with a few alterations (new sleeves).holiday-grangier-borgias-tvfash-3-325

I actually think it is pretty great that they re-used the dress. No one, no mater how rich you where, could afford a new dress every day and to newer up-cycle your old favorite styles to the current fashion.

I also got tipped of that Showtime was offering this exact dress up for sale on their website.

Caption:
“Lucrezia Borgia, played by Holliday Grainger wears a sky blue embroidered gown in Season 2 of The Borgias during the baptism of her son, Giovanni. Includes the sleeves later added to the gown.

The gown is impeccably tailored with a full lining. The details are never ending, with each little turn revealing another pristine element. The piece was designed and constructed by expert period costume designer Gabriella Pescucci and worn by Holliday Grainger on set. The dress corset-laces up the back with the outer layer fastening by hook and eye.”00466503-959462_1000

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The Borgias Lucrezia Borgia's Blue Dress with Sleeves

Did I mention these dresses are BEAUTIFUL…😉

 

Announcing the Winner…

To celebrate another year of blogging and getting lots of new followers, I wanted to give someting back to you all (or at least one of you😉) by hosting a giveaway (ending September 7).

And after meticolus consideration, no I’m kidding, I just pulled one name out of a ball.

The winner are:

Gabriella Salvador

(Who also run the faboulus blog pourlavictoire – go check it out)

Congratulation to your new fan!*

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Thank you to all who participated.

Love

Åsa

*Gabriella – It would be great if you could email me your shipping adress (asasomnasodesign@hotmail.com), and I will make sure to post the fan first chance I get. 

Thank you! 😀

 

1950s Turquoise Slim Dress

This dress was originally planed to be one of two options for my friends wedding mid July, but as you might expect – it wasn’t finished by then (so I wore a different dress instead).
(who knew you would get so little time for sewing whit a newborn in your lap…)

IMG_0150The pattern is an original I won at an online auction about a year ago.

The fabric is 1,5 m of soft Viscose in a lovely turquoise, I had in my stash, from which I barely managed to irk all the pattern pieces from.IMG_0152

Unfortunately I didn’t take any in progress photos, but the construction was really simple – basically a darted slim skirt sewn to a slightly larger/ lose T-shirt bodice. No zipper or clouser, just interfacing to the neckline and bust darts. A quick hemming and it was done (probably took me less then 4 hours, all and all).

Simple as it was, I did however made two pretty classic mistakes.
1. When enlarging the pattern for the bodice I added a bit to much center front/back which made the neckline to wide. It doesn’t show but it feels when worn.
2. I didn’t took the time to go into town to get more interfacing, but used what I had, which of course was way to stiff for the soft fabric, thous making the neckline facings to hard and adding to the weird look/feel of the neckline.

IMG_9971It does not look like much on the hanger…

  The finished dressIMG_0153

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IMG_0842Photo by: Maria Petersson

The facts:

What: A 1950s summer dress

Pattern: Simplicity 2963

Fabric & Notions: 1,5 m turquoise viscose, Thread and pieces of interfacing for the neck-facings.

Time & cost: about 100 Sek (16 Usd) and less then 4 hours (although I worked on it in 10 minute portions for 3 weeks, so it’s hard to tell exactly).

Final Thoughts: I do love the idea of this dress, but sadly I’m not a fan o it in real life. The lose bodice make my upper body look huge and the slim skirt only enhances that feeling. On a slimmer person, or at least someone with hm.. les bobbage (Did I mention I’m currently breastfeeding…) it would probably look great. But I don’t think I will ever wear it again.

Another year, another giveaway

And what a year it’s been…

Not only do I celebrate another year of blogging, but I’ve also had lots of great things happen to me in my personal life.

The biggest of them all – the arrival of my long awaited baby boy.
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After years of trying me and my long term boyfriend (who not long ago also became my fiance) finally found out we where expecting.

I kept sewing and pushing myself for bigger projects up until the point of exhaustion, but the day we found out about the pregnancy, was the day I quit sewing (at least for a while). I realized it was all to much, and I needed a break.

IMG_8890About two months pregnant, wearing the last ensemble I made during 2015.

And a break I had.

From Sewing, blogging and even reading costume related posts and articles on my phone.

IMG_20160515_194543_resized9 months pregnant, and almost ready to get back to sewing and blogging.

Now, almost a year later I slowly getting back to the urge to create and work with my hands.
I’m also back to blogging, all though not at all as frequently as before.

Now I only sew when I feel like it (and can get the time from my baby), and blog when I have something to share.

The strangest thing though, is that while on hiatus my Facebook page exploded in followers, going from like 200 the first year to another 400 these last couple of months. Getting the joke started about who I should just keep from posting at all…

… Which leads me to next good thing:

All my new followers🙂

Whether here on the blog, Facebook (www.facebook.com/blog.fashionthroughhistory) or Instagram (www.instagram.com/fashionthroughhistory)
Welcome!
I’m so happy that you choose to read and take part in my costuming endevour.
Don’t be shy, I love comments and interactions, and tries to answer every question to the best of my ability.

By the time I’m writing this I got
270 followers on the blog
600 Followers on Facebook
and 480 followers on Instagram

I think that’s worth celebrating!

And what better way of celebrating all my new followers then with a giveaway to one of you

I recently acquired another one of my favorite wooden fan – And now I will gift it to one of you.IMG_0195

Bildresultat för wooden fan(This picture is from the wide world web, but I do have a very similar one that I will send one of you totally free of charge)

If you want to be in the running, you need to:

  1. Follow the blog (if you don’t already)
  2. Write a comment on this post – say “Hey”,tell me your favorite movie or what ever you want – I just need the comment to get you in the running. But I don’t object to some nice buttering up;-)

You all have until noon September 7 (Swedish time) to post your comments.

I will then randomly pull one person from my hat, announce it on the blog and send the fan to you. (I will need to contact you for your posting adress and information.)

Lots of love

/Åsa

Traveling with Baby – Medieval baby sling

For the easiest entry to HSM ever, I started looking into ways to travel with my little one.

Before the use of strollers and the intricate baby carriers that’s becoming more and more popular, people (read women) used the easiest way of tugging their baby’s along – a fabric “sling”.

I will not go into the use of slings and ways to travel with baby’s in past times, since others do it so much better, like Som när det begav sig (link in Swedish). A simple google search will also give you the history from (more or les reliable) sites – most of which sell modern baby carriers and shawls.

The construction of my baby sling/shawl was to make a rectangle 3 x 1m and hem the edges.
I then tied it around my body (under one arm and over the other shoulder) and placed my baby in it.

And that’s that.

And since I sewed it by machine it actually took longer getting dressed for the photoshoot then it did making the sling.

Photos:
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(I only let go of my hands for a second)

The Challenge: Nr 6 2016 – Travel

What: A baby sling

Year: 1500-1600s

Material: 3,5 m of ivory cotton

Pattern: None – I just cut a rectangle 1 x 3,5 m and hemmed it.

Notions: Thread.

How historically accurate is it? The fabric should probably be linen or wool, but since this was meant as a first try I think it would do. the machine stitching are on the other hand not at all accurate. 6/10

Hours to complete: 10 minutes

First worn: Beginning august for photos, but will maybe be used late August for a Medieval fair.

Total cost: 100 Sek (16 Usd)

Final thoughts This was such a cheat. It was way to easy and fast to really count, bu since I did have my baby (!) in June I think I can give myself a break.

Monochrome Medieval baby undies

Last fall when I took a break from sewing I also quit he HSM mid run.
But now it’s time to jump on the bandwagon (halfway through) again.
I have been sewing a few things that would fit the previous challenges this year (read all about them here) but lets start with July (since that the first one I managed o finish within the time frame of he month).

The theme for this HSM 2016 nr 7 was Monochrome, and I was eager to test my hand at some historic baby clothes.

Using my newly bought book “The Tudor Child” for the patterns for basic baby gear. IMG_0179

The Pattern for the shirt is fairly simple. IMG_0180

I cut the fabric in my favorite cotton/linen blend, and started by hemming the piece as stated in the instructions.IMG_0181

IMG_0183The folding pattern for the shirt.

Then I whip-stitched the hemmed edges together.
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Once the shirt was finished (it all went surprisingly fast considering I did it all by hand with a sleeping/feeding/squirming newborn in my arms) I moved on to the biggin/hat.

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IMG_0184The pieces cut from the same cotton/linen blend.

IMG_0191Hemmed pieces. I decided to ad ties to help keep the bigging on my baby’s head.

I did a slight miscalculation drafting the pattern making the center piece to long. IMG_0192Ops… 
But really, it was just to cut it of.

I also realized I messed up stitching the shirt.
The center is supposed to be open to get easy access for the baby, and since they are supposed to be swaddled (Yeah, No, that’s not going to happen with my baby) the opening would be completely covered in other fabric. so in the end I think this way was better for me.

The finished pieces: IMG_0282

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The Challenge: Nr 7 2016 – Monochrome

What: A shirt and bigging/hat for a newborn baby.

Year: About 1500-1600

Material: 0,5 m Linen/cotton blend.

Pattern: baby swaddling Shirt and Bigging from “The Tudor Child”.

Notions: Thread

How historically accurate is it? Pretty good. The pattern and sewing methods are good (except the mistake of stitching the shirt front closed). The fabric should be linen, but since I have difficulty finding a soft linen I think the 50/50 cotton blend I use are quite legit. About 8/10

Hours to complete: 4 (3 for the shirt and 1 for the bigging)

First worn: Beginning August for photos. Was meant to be worn late August for a Medieval fair, but I’m not sure anymore (see “Final thoughts”)

Total cost: 50 Sek (8 Usd)

Final Thoughts: It was really fun making these pieces. They came together so fats and the fabric was a joy working with. Unfortunately the Shirt ended up way to small for my fast growing baby – well guess I just have to make another one…