1860s – silk bonnet (part 1) – making the bonnet

After the mandatory inspiration searching, were I decided on a style of bonnet to make, I got to work,

7a42b6b21b6ade8740f6dc978540db72Inspiration

I decided to drape my own pattern using thin cardboard, pictures and millinery books.IMG_6244

After some fiddling and pinning I got a pattern for a bonnet…IMG_6233Which looked like a total disaster…

No, this would not do, time for plan B.

I ordered Lynn McMasters “1860s bonnet pattern” and started all over again.IMG_6342

After copying the pattern I cut it out in buckram.     IMG_6339

To get a better view of how the bonnets shape, I pinned the pieces together for a better look.IMG_6346

After trying it on, I decided to cut a few cm of of the brim.IMG_6349

IMG_6370Marking the pieces

IMG_6373Sewing the millinery wire to the buckram pieces.

Then the pieces was ready to be stitched together.

To get them to line up perfectly I taped the together before I sewed.IMG_6429

IMG_6433Back piece stitched to side piece.

IMG_6468A pretty nice buckram frame

Then I stitched bias-tape round every edge to keep the corners smooth underneath the fabric.IMG_6472

Finished frames:
IMG_6469 IMG_6470

Then It was time to buy some fabric – deciding on green since that was one of the few colors in the store that would work with my dress (plaid white/blue) without being to obviously matching. IMG_6364

IMG_6366The cut pattern pieces.

As directed in the pattern I also cut cotton bating and some scraps of light green cotton for lining. IMG_6358

Before the fabric was to go on I needed to glue/stitch the batting on te frame to get an even smoother under layer for the silk.

Sadly I forgot to take pictures of this step, but basically I just glued around the edges of the frame pieces and carefully attached the batting to it.

Then it was time for the outer fabric.

(bad at photographing here too – I was working late at night, and didn’t had the camera on hand)

But I started with the crown, working downwards, basting all the edges and the carefully stitching the fabric pieces together.IMG_6580

IMG_6577 IMG_6585

IMG_6574Silk all stitched on.

Then it was time for the lining.IMG_6589Using a curved needle to baste the crown to the inner corners.

Stitching the fabrics together using small invisible stitches.IMG_6591

Before finishing the last piece (the gathered front) of the lining, It was time for the “curtain”/neckpiece.IMG_6593I basically just gathered a straight piece of silk and pinned it to the curved neck of the bonnet.IMG_6596Then I stitched it on.

Then I gathered, pinned and stitched the last piece of lining to the inner brim of the bonnet, and added some silk ties.IMG_6598

The base for the bonnet was now finished, and all that’s needed was the decoration.
IMG_6609 IMG_6611

IMG_6613I think it looks stunning and was a bit hesitant of even adding trimmings and decorations.

To be continued…

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6 thoughts on “1860s – silk bonnet (part 1) – making the bonnet

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