1860s blue/white hat

Wise from my previous try at millinery, I ordered a pattern without even trying to draft my own for my sister 1860s hat.  IMG_6343Lynn McMasters “1860s summer hat”

I drafted and cut the pattern for a medium sized hat and got to work on the buckram.IMG_6372

IMG_6373Stitching the millinery wire to the buckram.

Then I taped and sewed the top and side piece together by hand.IMG_6427

I covered the edges with bias tape.IMG_6434

Then it was time to cut the fabric.
Knowing my sisters fondness for blue, and having just recently finished my 18th century Redingote in a lovely blue wool, I decided to use the scraps for her hat.
IMG_6352Cutting the wool.

I also cut the pieces in cotton thin bathing for interlining, and white linen for lining.IMG_6354left to right: Buckram, bathing, blue wool, pattern piece and linen lining.

I carefully covered the buckram base with first bathing and then wool.IMG_6570

Then it was time for the lining. The piece underneath the brim was pleated, pinned and stitched on.IMG_6564

And the crown part was covered in two steps – first the top, and then the sides.
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Then I stitched the brim and the crown part together.IMG_6630

And flipped it over to sew the lining together.IMG_6629

The finished (un-trimmed) hat:
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But no hat is complete without some decoration…

I cut stripes of white chiffon to put on the hat. IMG_6653Looking pretty good.

I also wanted to ad a lace veil… IMG_6652..But decided not to since it looked so stupid, and I doubt my sister would want to wear it like that.

I pinned and sewed the chiffon to the hat in a shape of a bow with long tails.
To get some more interest to the look, I also added a bit of lace to the bow.IMG_6700

And that was that.
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The finished hat
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The facts:

What: a 1860s hat

Pattern: Lynn McMasters 1860s summer hat

Fabric & Notions: scraps of blue wool, white linnen and cotton bathing, 30cm buckram, 2m millenery wire, thread, 30cm polyester chiffong and 10cm polyester lace for decoration.

Time: About 20 hours.

Cost: ca 200 Sek (32 Usd) – all fabric from stash.

Final thoughts: I think it look really good and I hope my sister likes it – because I do.

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