18th century Spring Anglaise En Fourreau

Here in Sweden November’s been darker then usual and it seems we just broke the record for less hours of sun, counting only 2 hours of sun during the whole past month.
No wounder we all feel and look like living dead by now. (and Winter is coming…)

So today I decided it was time to get some costuming sun, by showing of my newest gown – inspired by fresh spring flowers…

Last year I bought this fabric from IKEA (hm, must be my, 5th dress, or something made by fabric/curtains/bed-sheets from that store).IMG_0739And a month ago I dug it out from my stash determent to make it into something 18th century.

Inspiration came straight away.
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I used an old pattern and made some minor alterations like moving the shoulder seam, and remade the sleeve.

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I tried the paper pattern on my dress-form to get a better look of how it would look.
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Then I made and tried on the mock-up.
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After some minor alteration I was ready to cut the fabric.

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Since I didn’t had any deadline for this project, I decided to make the whole dress by hand.IMG_0916

I basted the lining to the interlining and stitched the bodice together for a try on.
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After lowering the neckline a few cm, I put the bodice on my dress-form and started covering it with the fashion fabric.
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The En Fourreau pleats was a bit tricky to get to lie smooth, but after once re-pinning I stitched everything down from the outside using back-stitches.
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Then I set the sleeves, gathered and stitched on the skirt, cut the length and hemmed it. And finished of with some pleated trim and hook and eye for closure.IMG_0912

The Finished dress:
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Facts:

What: a 1780s robe Anglaise

Pattern: I drafted my own using a old self made pattern as a starting point..

Fabric: 1 white flowery printed cotton bed sheet from IKEA (approximately 3,5 x 1,5 m), 0,5 m regular white cotton for lining and 0,5 m heavy upholster fabric for interlining.

Notions: Thread, 11 pair of hook and eyes and 1,5 m of plastic boning.

Time: Since it is completely hand stitched the amount of time is much higher then my usual projects. I will take a educated guess at 25 hours counting low.

Cost: About 200 Sek (32 Usd). Everything from stash.

Final Thoughts: I’m not thrilled about it.
The back pleating looks a bit sad, and the en fourreau back is not one of my greatest accomplishments. I think I will have to re-make the entire back of the gown before wearing it for real.
I also think the front point should be longer and more pronounced, even if that’s something I can live with for now.
I do however like the shape and setting of the newly drafted sleeves. And the fabric of this gown just look so soft and beautiful.

(Sport)Autumn Anglaise – Photoshoot

This picture post contains even more photos then usually, since I insisted on a second photshoot after I’d properly shortened the petticoat. You can actually see the skirts different lengths in many of these photos.

And once again a big thanks sis, for always helping me photograph and never complaining (even when I get frustrated at my own lack in modeling skills, and crappy wig work ;-)) I really appreciate it.

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IMG_1375Photos: Maria Petersson

The Sport Anglaise finishing up

Iv’e been sewing a lot lately, crossing several new and a few old projects of my list.

One of those “old” projects was the “Sport- Anglaise” which I’ve started in January. Then in Mars I gave you an update, and last week I managed to finish and photograph it properly.

I stated, when first starting this project – I will only sew, while my boyfriend watches sport on our Television.
Well that didn’t last very long…
I had way to much to do during the spring, and there was no way I could set aside all the other projects just because there was some game playing in the other room.
But to my defense this year I’ve endured both an Olympics and a World Championchip in football, so I’m pretty sure the dress would have been finished long ago if I’d stucked to the plan.

Anyhow, lets take a look at my final construction notes and finished pictures:

Where I left of last time I had just cut the fabric and begun to put he bodice together.IMG_0486I basted the side and shoulder seams. Stitched the three back seams down, doing small back stitches from the outside.IMG_0487The back stitched down.

Then I laced on my corset, and pinned the bodice shut for a try on.
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As you can see it is a bit snug at the waist, causing the fabric to buckle under the pressure. But otherwise the fit was fine.

So let the side seams out a bit at the waist to get a smooth line.IMG_0488

Then I stitched the lining to the front and back piece.IMG_0732

And put in the sleevesIMG_0737I stitched them right sides together under arm and, from the top over the shoulder. Attaching the shoulder strap along the way.IMG_0728

And carefully pining the lining into place.IMG_0729

I put boning in the center back and front seams to help reduce wrinkles.IMG_0731

And stitched on hooks and thread bars for closure.IMG_0785

This is all that left of my 2,5 m fabric once the dress was complete.IMG_0764Thank goodness I didn’t need to make any bigger changes to it.

The Finished dress pared with the golden skirt:
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And a la polonaise:IMG_1435

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And a mirror selfie of me dressed for the photoshoot:IMG_1419

Dress facts:

Pattern: None, I draped my own.

Fabric: 2,5 m of printed cotton, 0,5 m brown cotton for lining and 0,5 m thick canvas for interlining.

Notions: Thread, hooks and eyes, 0,6 m plastic boning for the front and some small pieces of ribbon for the “bustle effect”.

Time: I would guesstimate about 20 hours, but I started it in January (working on it only while my boyfriend watched some kind of sport on Tv) so I can’t be sure.

Cost: About 100 Sek (16 Usd) since the fabric was on sale.

Final thoughts: I really like this dress. I think it looks lovely and make me feel good wearing it. I’m already dreaming of going to a 18th century masked ball dressed in this gown and posing as “Autumn”.

Although looking at the pictures of me wearing it, I notice the huge amount of wrinkles occurring at the under arm/bust era, and at the back waist. I think I will have to go back and re-check the fit.

Artistic Anglaise – Photoshoot

Yesterday I went to the beautiful park by the castle Haga in Stockholm to attend a costuming picknic (wich I will tell you about in my next post). And as it was the first outing for my new striped Robe Anglaise I made sure to get some good photos of me wearing it.

So here you go – my newest gown beautifully depicted by my sister using the enviroment of the park as a backdrop.

Wearing the skirt bustled up, and paired with a long fichu.IMG_8733

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Then I let the skirt down and removed the fichu.IMG_8763

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IMG_8818Trying to pose with a harp, but with a tree…

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IMG_8829Crazy sillyness…
My new profile picture, don’t you think….

Photo: Maria Petersson

Artistic Robe Anglaise

When the 10th HSF challenge – Art, was announced I didn’t need to think for long. I emetetly knew I wanted to make the Rose Adélaïde Ducreuxs dress fom her “self portraite whit a harp”.tumblr_lk71wnynCC1qbkn6io1_500I even took the opurtunity to make the skirt and fichu from the portrait for a previous challenge, to be able to only focus on the dress for this one.

I alreay had the fabric IMG_8367 8m of striped cotton, bought on sale about a year ago.

I put my corset, bumpad, and petticoat on the dressform and started to drape the bodice pattern.
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Then I cut the toile, sewed it togeter and tried it on.
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Then it was time to cut the fabric.IMG_8361 Besides from the striped cotton, I used a bleached linnen fabric for the zone front and a white cotton twill for interlining.

My original plan was to make the gown entierly by hand, but time ran out and life interupted, and on top of that I’m starting to think it is a waist of time to hand stich a gown in the wrong material. so, after some back and fort, I decided to make it by machine. (And boy am I happy about that decision now…)

I started the sewing by basting togeter all the different layers – so yes, I did do some handsewing. IMG_8364

Then I shaped and stiched the back pleats in place, usin tiny backstitches. IMG_8371back piece and back lining.
IMG_8372IMG_8378Close-up on the stiches.

I then sewed the bodice togeter and tried it on to check the front closeur.
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And as you can se the front lines dont match up. So to fix that I needed to adjust the center front line and make a buttonhole placket. This metod is usaly a big no no in sewing but time was sparse and I’ve already manadged to mach the stripes pretty good, so I did’nt want to adjust the side seams.

Then I started on the button and buttonholes, also hand stitched. IMG_8539 They are not as neat and pretty as I would have liked but they will have to do. And I even needed to use some fabric glue on the buttons to keep them from snapping apart.IMG_8557

It was about here I noticed that something was of with the front piece interfacing. While basting the layers togeter I’ve manadged to put the interling as outer fabric, then stich the hole bodice up like that and on top of that make the buttonholes. Darn it.
Well there wasn’t much to do then go on pretending that the twill was supose to be the outer fabric. Fortanly, no other part of the bodice was white so the only thing revealing my mistake is the linnen covered buttons… IMG_8582

So I continued by cuting and setting the lining, using a regular white cotton fabric.

Before the next try on I pinned the sleeves on losely to get a grip on their placement.
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Unfortanly the sleeves were the last things I noticed when I put it on – The stupid bodice was way to smal. I tightened my corset all I could, and did manadged to close all the buttons. Only now the bodice looked horrible and the stresslines were pulling all over the front.

So back to the sewing machine I whent, using the alowence in the side/back seams to make the bodice a total of 2,5 cm bigger. IMG_8591

Then I pinned and sewed the sleeves. The insertion was an easy one, but the deciding on the sleeve trim was a bit harder. In the end I decided to stepp away from the inspiration and go with my guts and use a smaler design then originaly planed.

Now it was time for the skirt. I sewed the pannels together and  hand stiched lines of gatering thread, to get them nice and even al over the skirt. IMG_8542 Then I pulled the skirt waist togeter and pinned it to the bodice, using the zone front as a mark were to start the skirt.
The sewing was abit tricky, geting all the fabric to lay smothly. IMG_8620

The final touches was to finish of the arm hole, tuck down the lining and stich on some Busteling-ties to make it an “Polainese”.

Finished dress:

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Just the Facts:

Challenge: nr 10 – Art

What: a 1780s robe Anglaise.

Inspiration: Rose Adélaïde Ducreux “self portarit with a harp”.

Pattern: I draped my own, using Arnolds “Pattern of Fashion” as a guide.

Fabric: 4 m of striped white/green cotton, 0,5 m of white linnen, 0,5 m of white twill for interlining, 0,5 m of white cotton sheet for lining and 0,3 m of white dotted organdy for sleeve cuffs.

Notions: Thread, 10 self covered buttons, 1 m plastic boning, 5 cm cottin string.

How historical accurate: The shape and look of the garment are ok, but it is compleatly machine made with modern tecniques. I dind’t had the time or the money for a compleatly hand made silk dress.

Time: On and of for two weeks – maybe 15-20 hours.

Cost: about 300 Sek (48Usd). All fabrics were stash and bought on sale.

First worn: Not yet, but will be (pared with the White entries) next weekend for the huge historical picknick i the capital.

Final thoughts: The dress are not an exact copie of the one in the portrait, but I do think it looks pretty good. I’m a bit anoyed about the stress wrinkels on the front bodice, but with the time constriant am glad I manadged to finish it of at all. Tomorrow I will give it a real try out and se if it passes the test.

 

Artistic inspiration

As soon as the HSF 10: Art, was annonced I knew I wanted to recreate this beautiful gown.robe à l'anglaise

Later when browsing the internet for other similarly striped gowns, I noticed they were very popular in costuming circles but not that comon in museums.

Some lovely costumes.

back striped gown at tea

Sarah-striped polonaise

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And some extant examples.DT11839

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4b4e281244a49e7b148afffec6a6e076a zone front

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When it comes to the paintings the examples where even fewer. Except for my original inspiration picture I only found two paintings, and one sporting somewhat striped gowns.

4260119925_f2f2f29223Well, at least the shawl are striped… And the dress are a zone front with a white underdress and skirt.

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629a56cb9743918d5fb3323e417fc293Not even sure this one is 18th century (It don’t look like other period paintings).

Then I turned to fashion plates.465e399f28de527eeac544dc894aa34a

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And found one looking almost ecaxtly like my inspiration. imagesCAJNR3PBPerfect!

Sport Dress – update

I thought it is about time to give you an update on my sewing game against my boyfriend (Sport Vs Sewing).

Well I need to confess – I have had no chanse in hell, to stand up to his television sports with my sewing.

First I had the big Opera 1880s gown to finish in january, making me decide to post-pone the game a month, to february – which turned out to be even more filled with sport (Olympic games anyone). And between some comissions and the HSF14 I really stuggeled to get enything done on the “Sports Anglaise”.

For my gaming entry I’ve decided to make the 1770-1780s Robe Anglaise from Janet Arnolds “Pattern of Fashion”.IMG_6182

The fabric is a lowely flowery quilting cotton I bought (the whole bolt) on sale this past fall. IMG_6273

So while the Olympics hockey games played on our television I finaly grabbed myself and got to work.

Putting my 18th century corset, bumroll and petticoat on my dressform, I started to drape a pattern.

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Here you can see the different lines and changes I made while working.IMG_6189Trying to get Arnolds pattern sketch to match the lines and shapes on my dressform.

When satisfied I un-pinned the pattern from the form, and re-drew and cleaned up the lines and curves to get a nice looking pattern. IMG_6191

Then I cut the bodice in regular cotton lawn for the mock-up.IMG_6216

And then I tried it on.IMG_6254

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As usual it needed some changes. Like taking out about 6cm in the shoulder straps, and adding about 3 cm in lenght to the waist. I also needed to re-adjust the center back seam to get a nice and smooth line.

IMG_6268Making the changes to the mock-up.

Then I lay the pieces out and pinned them to the fabric.IMG_6270

I was both impresed and a bit worried by the smal amounth of fabric scraps left after cutting the bodice, sleeves and skirt pannels.  IMG_6276There will be no room for mistakes.

The last thing I did (during the disapointing hockey finaly) was to pin the pieces togheter, thous making them ready for hours of hand sewing.IMG_6287

Tally: 2 hockey games = draping a pattern, making a mock-up, cutting the fabric and pinning the pieces togheter.