Fashion School Graduation Collection 2006

It’s been 9 years since I finished fashion school.
A lot has happened since then, but I thought to share my Graduation collection with you.

The theme for the collection was “Myth and Fairytale”
And I named my collection “Dream of Venus” – I know , So cheesy, but I was only 18 back then.

Dream of Venus

We was asked to make a inspiration collage, from which we was to take colors and shapes to paint 15 fashion sketches, and produce/make 5 complete ensembles

IMG_0030My Inspiration collage

IMG_0033The colors I choose was blue, turquoise, white and gold.

Here are the five designs I decided to sew for the final fashion show.venus 11Halterneck dress

venus nr6Jacket and skirt

venus 2Halter top and floor length skirt

venus 7Jacket/cape and pants

venus 8Strap-less dress
We were assigned classmates to sew for and during 4 weeks we worked diligently to finish all the pieces in time for the fashion show.

My collection at the final fashion show:2E0X2737

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Looking back at it I think I did pretty good.
Of course there are lots of things I would do differently now, but I learnt a lot working on these pieces and I still love the pre-made two toned viscose fabric.

Regency Sewing Course

This fall I’ve been knee deep in Regency – in a good way.

As preparations for the up-coming regency ball I was asked to teach a night class in historic sewing.

So in beginning of September we had the first class. I was really nervous, not at all sure about this period  and not knowing was the students were expecting.

IMG_3351Patterns.

Everything went smooth, and the students were very grateful and everyone helped in answering the more tricky questions, which made me really happy about all the combined knowledge in the group.

IMG_3656It seems even I got some time working on my dress between helping the others.

IMG_3652My sister working on her ridicule.

IMG_3342The last meeting was held just a week before the ball, and the theme were accessories.

bild 1Concentrating hard.

IMG_3347Carl’s pinning the lining for his waistcoat.

IMG_3349Anna is a happy camper stitching away on her mock up for a spencer.

IMG_3662Pernilla stitching on her gown.

IMG_3350Maud usuly does 18th century but have changed century for this ball.

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The day of the ball some of us was not quite finished…IMG_3724Sneaking out those needles during the water break in the dancing rehearsals

 And here comes some pics from the ball to show of everybody’s beautiful work.

IMG_3755Denise and Pernillas lovely green creations.

IMG_3810Paula and Carl shared and used the same sari for their outfits, and they both looked smashing.

IMG_3815Maud made her whole dress by hand, and did manadge to finish before the last minute.

IMG_3819Solveig made the dress for her daughter Othelia.

IMG_3821Clara in her light green dress and wonderful ridicule.
Hm, do I detect a color trend…

10799595_1007608945932899_1896436223_nAnna in her fabulous cream colored gown
(photo credit to Anna)

IMG_3801And Pose….

 I’m so proud of what everyone of you have accomplished, and you all looked fantastic at the ball.
I’ve learnt so much during our meetings and hope to continue this classes, now when we all are ready for some new challenges.

“Foxhunt” School Project – part 3

The day before me and my sister was supposed to do the photoshoot of the “Foxhunt” Collection, I got it in my head to try to get some more pieces in to it.

So I decided to finish the mock-up for the breeches, thous including them in the Collection. They were already half finished, and only needed the lining, the buttons and some decoration. Sewn in a plain cotton fabric in a lovely green colour.

I also dug up my 1780s corset from half a year before.

grön okDesign sketch: Flowery corset and green breeches.

This corset was one of my second attempt at the 1780s pattern from Salens “Corsets”.IMG_6104Wise from my previous attempt at the pattern I decided to only use it as a guide in drafting the new pattern.

Not historical correct at all, but I still think the flower design looks great (and a bit kitch) on the front piece (and matching back piece).2012-07-10 19.39.19

2012-07-10 19.39.06The boning layout, using plastic cable-ties.

The corset turned out pretty good, and I frekvently use it in my costuming. If you been reading my blog Before, you might recognize it from some of my previous posts.IMG_6184Draping a robe Anglaise.

IMG_1922Photo from “1750s Layering“.

And worn together with the rest of my “Foxhunt” pieces.CIMG6554Where did the boobs go…

And at the photoshoot.korsett-o-byxa

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“Foxhunt” School Project – part 2

For my school project last year I made a 18th century Collection called “Foxhunt” (Part 1).

When finished with the coat I started on the pants – A pair of mens breeches, using the pattern from Costume Close-up, and this picture as my guide.breeches-silk-18th-century-part-of-a-wedding-suit-from-the-ham-house-collection-surrey-national-trust

byxor okDesign sketch – Breeches.

I bought a light colloured faux sweade fabric, wich I fell in love with on the rack, but hated long before finishing the pants. The fabric was the devil, and totaly hopeless to manuver into the sewing machine, and harder still to hand stich.

The front opening on the pants was also hard to figure out while patterning (and to sew). But it did end up looking great, and the self covered buttons, jeans buttons and, sweade ribbons I used realy cooperated to make a pretty whole.

And I do love the look and the fit of the finished breeches, so I guess it was wort the work.

Then it was time to deal with the waistcoat.

väst okDesign sketch – waistcoat and green breeches.

I used a gold/yellow upholstery fabric I found on sale, and cut the pieces from the same pattern as the coat – only a tad smaller, and without the sleeves. For the back I used brown polyester lining, and the buttons are self covered in the golden fabric.

Fisnished outfit.2013-01-14 13.01.57I’m also wearing: A re-shaped feelt hat, the shirt for my national costume, neck-cloth, stockings and my folk dancing shoes.

And at the photoshoot.IMG_1111

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When the whole outfit (coat, breeches, waistcoat and hat) was ready, I had abot 2 days left until the photoshoot.

And  you know I can’t resist making some more items when I got such a massive amounth of time on my hands (ehm… Yeah, right).

So I decided to do a corset to complement the look.

korsett okDesign sketch: Corset and breeches.

Using the leftover golden fabric from the waistcoat and the 1780s corset pattern from Jill Salens book, and all my spear time, I manadged to get it finished in time.

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IMG_1253 ok“Foxhunt” cover pic

And if you thought that was it, you are wrong – well kind of. I will show you the rest of the collection next time.

“Foxhunt” School Project – part 1

Last year I attended a class in “Pattern Constuction”.

For the final exemanation we where suppose to make (pattern and sew) something to challenge and push ourself. We would have about a month to design, pattern and sew the item.

And since I always make womens gowns I decided to try my hands at some menswear.

I really like the late 18th century style and decided to try to recreate something like this right one.hämta

I used this fashion plate as my inspiration.images (1)

And drew my own version of it.rockenok

Since I don’t know anyone who would like a coat like this (and no, I wouldn’t even think of asking my boyfriend), I decided to make the costume to my own measurments.

To keep to the original ideá of a mans coat, I used a mens pattern from “Costume Close-up” by Baumgarther, and altered the shape to fit my somewath more womanly figure.img312

I used a lovely brown wool with a nice strong but shapeable feel to it, and decorated it with lots of self covered buttons and suttage ribbons. (And since this was something I made before my blogging days, I sadly have no construction photos).

When the coat was finished I had 2 weeks left to deadline, and being me, I emedatly started working on a couple of other clothing items to make a mini collection.IMG_5997 (Don’t worry, I will show you everything soon).

Finished outfit2013-01-14 13.01.04Coat, waistcoat, breeches and hat.

I decided to name my collection “Foxhunt”, and the day before the deadline, me and my sister went outside to take some pictures.

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A Cherry Blossom part 3 – Evening Gown

So, when I finished the Traveling suit (and underwear) for the school project back in 2010, I decided to also make a balgown for my caracter (Anja in “The Cherry Orchade”).

I found this pretty gown on the internet and used it for inspiration.far1

balklänning produktteckningTechnical drawing of the gown.

Anja-BalklänningAnd my costume design sketch.

I bought a white lightweight cotton fabric and some grey lace, and began the sewing.

This was way before I started doing historical costume so the pattern making and construction are all totaly modern. I just did what I could to make it look historical. The costume is a two piece – skirt and bodice, with additional costume pieces added at the end of the proces to make it look even more historical.

The skirt is made out of three pieces (front, side and back), where the front is draped to the lace-covered side piece.

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It closes with snaps at the side, hidden behind the lace.kjol knäppning öppen

The bodice is laced up the back using gromets, and are stiffened with bones in every seam. It also have decorative stripes of lace, and a smal peplum at the back.

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The night before my sister was coming for the photoshoot, I decided to use the last pieces of fabric to make a seperate draping to hide the bustle beneath the way to see-through skirt. I also made a bow of the lace and added it to the back for contrast.

Then I dressed my sister in the gown and had her model it.

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DSC_0278And a silly shoot.

Considering my very limited knowledge of historical clothes at the time, I think I manadged petty good with both the underwear, traveling suit and the balgown. But there are some things I would defenetly change if she would ever whant wear one of these costumes again.

A Cherry Blossom part 2 – Traveling Suit

When the underwear was finished (A Cherry Blossom part 1) It was time to move on to the “real” garmnents.

I decided to make traveling outfit for the caracter of Anja. She and her family rides the train to get to their country estate, and I thougt it would be fun to create a ensamble to wear while traveling.

blusA design sketch of the shirt.

blus o hatt produktteckningAnd a construction drawing of the shirt and hat, including fabric notes and details.

I used a nice cotton satin for the shirt and did pintucks, buttonclouser and lace decoration. Blus stråveck (2)

blus fram hängandesThe finished shirt.

I also bought some modeling clay (cenitlera) and sculpted some bees for the bee-broch being mentioned in the play.bi-brosch i lera

For headwear I bought a hat on an online auction.hatt innan

Which I sprayed with silver paint and decorated with ribbons, lace and feathers.hatt silver omonterad

Then I continued with the outer layer of the costume.Resdräkt

resdräkt produktteckningConstruction sketch with fabric and stiching notes.

I drafted the pattern on my own, and used a purple cotton twill for the skirt and jacket.tillklippningCutting the pieces.

Then I decorated them with silver lace and buttons.

kjol fram kjol bak

jacka fram jacka bak

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And then I asked my sitster to model the clothes.DSC_0071(She is wearing the shift, corset and bustle from my last post underneath.)

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CIMG4110And a silly shoot.

Anja-ResedräktMy final costume design.

This outfit would be more than enough to conclude the shool project. But since I’m a bit of an over-achiver (if you haven’t noticed), I also decided to make a balgown for the caracter (which I will tell you about next time).

A Cherry Blossom part 1 – Underwear

A couple of years ago I attended a class in “costume design”, and one of the plays we got to work with was The Cherry Orchard by Anton Tjeckov. The play is set in the late 19th/early20th century russia, and are about a familys last days on their recently sold country estate.

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We where asked to choose one caracter to design a costume to fitt the narrative of the play. I picked the caracter of “Anja”, a young debutant who dreams of love and a fairytale lifestyle.

I decided to make the costume from the inside out (being me, I couldn’t just do one dress…).

I started by deciding the underwear, doing a principle sketch combined with a lists of material and notions.korsett, turnyr, chemise produktteckningA corset, bustle and chemise.

korsett, chemiseAnd a costume sketch.

I started by making the chemise, in a soft cotton voile and decorated it with some lace. I used a free download pattern from the internet (which I unfortanly have lost the link to). chemise 1

Then I moved on to the bustle. turnyr tillverkningskittWith only pictures of bustles and no pattern I tried to draft my own, resulting in a pretty good shape – but probably not the easyest way to do it.

turnyr inutiInside of the bustle. You can se all the seamlines and the boning chanels.

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Then it was time for the corset. I used Jill Salens pattern for “Pretty Housmaid corset” 1880s, which I enlarged using the computor and printer.

I cut the pieces in a lovely cotton sateen.Korsett tillklippning

The cording took  quite a while (it was my first time doing it).korsett helt cordat

I sewed it together, inserted busk, bones, gromets and then attached bias tape and lace. korsett divCreative mess.

korsett sidanDetail flossing.

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I asked my sister to model the garmnents.CIMG3990

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1My favourite costume picture ever.

So now the underwear was ready, it was time to start on the dress.

But that will have to wait untill next post.